What's Korea like?

Korea doesn't seem to do moderation. My life here varies between rushing from activity to activity with very little time to unwind, sleep, or reflect, to days like today- spent entirely alone and encompassing fleeting "just what exactly am I doing here?" thoughts. There is a simple response to that question- working a job I like, dating a girl I like very much, getting to know some pretty good people. Things, it must be said, pretty available in many places. So what exactly is in Korea that makes it memorable, unique, and worth traveling to the other side of the world?

I'm very intrigued by the fact that in a country full of natural beauty, Koreans managed to build the ugliest city I have ever visited. This is not to say that I dislike Seoul- I love it, but never have I seen such a sprawling, disconnected, pedestrian-unfriendly place, and I've been to Dallas! Even the parks in Seoul are moderately ugly (save the wonderful Olympic Park), let alone the innumerable high rises. What other city on earth is so full of high rise buildings and yet has no definable skyline? Conversely, what other city on earth has multiple subway stops doubling as launching points for a mountain climb?

Korean food is wonderful; I just don't want to eat it every day! Already I have eaten more rice, kimchi, and tentacles than I would consider "acceptable." I have also eaten western food in korea, notably Pizza Hut (no please, in my country this is for the animals... sigh) covered in sweet potato sauce, and pasta containing what I can only identify as bite size squid (whole). Eat the head, eyeballs and all? Why not... Give me Korean BBQ anytime- cooking up generous portions of meat with onion, garlic, and mushroom yourself, washed down with the devil's brew (soju).

Then there is the paradox of Korean people- some of the warmest, most generous, closed people I have ever met. There is such a disconnect between the lives of "westerners" and Koreans here. Sadly, it is relatively easy to immerse yourself in an English world, even where it is not widely spoken. And I say this as someone dating a Korean.

My first post! Anyone bothering to read this, you obviously know how free I am with my speech, almost to the point of carelessness. Yet of course I am the opposite with my writing- this meager effort took me over an hour.